Last year, I decided to slow travel and live anywhere in the country for a minimum of 1 month. I started in Cebu in Visayas, then to Bukidnon in Mindanao, then up to Baguio in North Luzon, all the way to Mountain Province and Kalinga, and finally, Batanes.
Batanes was my last destination for the year and I spent 1 month and 3 weeks there. Even though I’ve done it a couple of times, I still worried about a couple of things before going to Batanes, “Is the internet connection reliable?”, “Will I be able to cook my own food?”, “If I stay in a homestay for a month, will I be able to afford it?”.
But as an easygoing traveler, I arrived in Batanes on October 8 without any tours and accommodations booked, and barely any knowledge about the province. When I arrived, my first problem was the internet. Unfortunately, a typhoon passed a day before I arrived and took down a cell tower. My data wasn’t working when I needed to navigate through Google Maps to get around town. I walked from the airport aimlessly, cluelessly in Batanes. While I find this type of experience fun, I know it’s not going to work for everyone. So I wrote this comprehensive travel guide in Batanes for travelers like me who like to do it on their own.
Disclaimer: The Batanes Tourism discourages DIY travel around the province. Before the pandemic, they even prohibited it. Even now, the word “DIY” is like a taboo among the guides and tour operators in Batanes.
When I came to Batanes in October 2023, the tourism staff encouraged me to at least avail one tour, either North Batan, South Batan, Sabtang, or an Itbayat tour, before hopping on a rented motorbike to explore Batanes by myself. Starting December 2023 however, they clarified that it is not only encouraged but now required to avail at least one tour for tourists before exploring on your own.
Accommodation
Where to Stay in Batanes
In Basco, accommodation prices range from Php 500 to 1500 a night, per person. I would consider anywhere in Basco as a good location because everything is just within walking distance. But if you want to be at the center of everything, then I recommend the Midtown Inn & Restaurant. The cheapest rate I found is at Wakay Homestay, which only costs Php 500 per person a night, with A/C.
In Sabtang, I stayed at Da Figura Cafe (Figura Bed and Dine) and I definitely recommend it. A fan room only costs Php 400 per person, a night. The owner of the place is an architect and you can tell just by the ambiance of the whole place, it looks so cozy and beautiful from the restaurant to the accommodation.
In Itbayat, we stayed at a friend’s house so I can’t recommend any homestay, but I wrote a list of the DOT-Accredited Accommodations in Batanes below. The list is from the Batanes Tourism Office.
Most of the accommodations in this list are in Batan Island. But sad to say, it is not specified whether the accommodation is in Batan, Sabtang, or Itbayat. I just know the accommodations in Itbayat are under the Homestay category.
| Hotel | Contact No. | |
| Fundacion Pacita Batanes | 0939 901 6353 | fundacionpacita50@gmail.com |
| Bernardo’s Lantia Hotel | 0917 512 5346 | bernardoslantiahotel@gmail.com |
| Mabuhay Accommodation | ||
| Amboy Hometel | 0920 910 3492 | amboyhometel@gmail.com Vom |
| Baletin Hometel | 0907 389 7122 | None |
| Batanes Seaside Lodge & Restaurant | 0919 696 6468 | batanesseasidelodge@gmail.com |
| Boulder-Bay Residences | 0951 961 6000 | Boulderbayres@gmail.com.co |
| Beach Front Bed and Dine | 0938 217 7179 | Beachfront2016@yahoo.com |
| Casa Domingo | 0906 515 6615 | Casadomingoinn@gmail.com |
| Casa Feliciano | 0998 510 4001 | mslechuga_1469@yahoo.com sa |
| Davocol’s Inn | 0928 505 0611 | Davocolsgm@gmail.com |
| Den Den Guesthouse | 0908 879 6509 | None |
| Dive Batanes Lodge | 0918 900 2010 | divebatanes@gmail.com |
| D Jeds Hometel | 0906 102 7002 | Djedshometelbatanes.com |
| Hillside Villa | 0960 419 1429 | batanes.hillside@gmail.com |
| Ichehan Lodge | 0906 757 1556 | Acebesmikee_23@yahoo.com 10 |
| Katuvang B and B | 0917 535 1321 | marrykennethdasilao@gmail.com |
| KenAdrian’s Hometel | 0929 648 6450 | marfellodge@gmail.com otheblog |
| Marfel Lodge (Main) | 0919 581 4549 | None |
| Midtown Inn | 0921 367 7933 | midtowninn.batanes@gmail.com |
| Octagon Bed and Dine | 0921 344 0385 | batanesoctagonbnb@gmail.com |
| Penmaya Hometel | 0919 994 8653 | None |
| Pension Ivatan | 0917 177 2022 | Pensionivatan.batanes2006@gmail.com |
| Residencia du Basco | 0969 417 0829 | Residenciadubasco@gmail.com |
| Shanedels’s Inn & Café | 0928 194 1910 | shanedelsbatanes@gmail.com |
| Timetravel Lodge | 0929 166 9838 | None |
| Ukuy’s Place | 0908 705 4173 | ukuysplace15@gmail.com |
| Villa De Babat | 0915 192 8276 | None |
| Villa Hontomin Hotel and Restaurant | 0998 567 8653 | villahontomin@yahoo.com |
| Ysabelle Homestay | 0928 234 5242 | Ysabellehomestay2019@gmail.com |
| RnE Hometel | 0928 765 9838 | elizaaguto@gmail.com |
| Figura’s Bed and Dine | 0919 364 9693 | charo_figura@yahoo.com |
| Florabell’s Iraya Guest House | 0908 389 8262 | None |
| Pananayan Pension House | 0929 667 6775 | None |
| Homestay | ||
| Abengaña’s Guest House | 0920 514 5274 | hubaldeeufemia@gmail.com |
| Alcantara’s Guest House | 0969 170 9988 | None |
| An Velayo Homestay | 0919 994 8967 | anvelhomestay@gmail.com |
| Crisan Lodge | 0999 990 7548 | crisanlodge@gmail.com |
| Doque’s Homestay | 0966 460 0458 | None |
| Evan’s Homestay | 0921 881 2767 | evan.homestay@gmail.com |
| Frater’s Room | 0999 789 9757 | eldablechuga@gmail.com |
| Fuentes Heritage Tourist Inn | 0908 388 9580 | fuentesheritageinn@gmail.com |
| Hillside Lodge | 0960 353 7922 | None |
| Horlina’s Homestay | 0921 762 9373 | entelaagnes@gmail.com |
| Marfel Lodge (Annex) | 0919 581 4549 | marfellodge@gmail.com |
| Necy’s Homestay | 0977 353 6998 | None |
| Novita House | 0928 239 7629 | novitahouse@gmail.com |
| Puriran Hometel | 0928 760 8078 | Puriranshometel@gmail.com |
| Rapitan di Vasay Lodging & Food | 0947 210 5960 | None |
| Troy Lodge | 0920 447 0726 | Troylodge120941@gmail.com |
| Wakay Homestay | 0961 249 5652 | Homestay2014@gmail.com |
| Farmer’s Guesthouse | 1 647-671-3145 | farmersguesthouse1@gmail.com |
| Martinez Homestay | 0910 281 5843 | None |
| Neyala Homestay | 0949 317 7206 | None |
| Levinda Lodge | 0949 738 9795 | None |
Food
Restaurants to Try in Batanes
I stayed in Batanes for 1 month and 3 weeks and ate out during lunch and dinner almost all of the time. I made it a goal to eat at all the restaurants my local friends recommended to me. Here are some of the food spots in Batanes I have tried that I recommend:
Where to eat in Basco
Beehan
If you want to try authentic Ivatan food at a fair price, then this is the place. It’s also the cheapest place to eat in Batanes, even cheaper than carinderias.
Korner Hauz Cafe
A cozy outdoor cafe, Korner Hauz’s menu is inspired by American diners. I ordered chicken parmigiana, fries, and garlic pepper beef and loved the garlic pepper beef so much. I’m convinced it was better than Pepper Lunch.
Kookowa Chicken Inasal
I had a chance to try the grilled tuna in this place one time when I was going home from church and I remember my Globe’s LTE worked here (that only happens rarely!). They have unlimited free soup and the grilled tuna also tasted great.
Noods Ramen House
This was the nearest restaurant to where I lived. So when I had the worst hangover I’ve ever had that I got up at past lunchtime, I rushed to eat here. It was just the best ramen I’ve ever had so every time I had a drink with my friends the night before, you’ll find me here in the morning, even when I don’t have a hangover. The broth is so rich, I proudly say I have tried every ramen this place has to offer.
When my friends in Batanes and I talk about this place, we all agree it’s the best and even cheaper but better than most of the expensive Japanese restaurants in Manila. When I ate at Fundacion Pacita, I also overheard a group of friends (in their late 20s) saying Noods Ramen House has top-quality ramen that they ate there every day.
Cafe Pampayukay
I went to this cafe almost every day for the Starlink wifi so I could work, so I’d say their strong suit is the free wifi. Kidding aside, “pampayukay” means “pampagising” in Ivatan and the cafe owner is a coffee enthusiast. I’ve heard many compliments from tourists about the coffee in this cafe. But for non-coffee drinkers, beef pares is also a must-try! I don’t usually eat pares but it’s one of the things I miss from my stay in Batanes.
Jino’s East Pizzeria
A house turned into a pizza place, when I entered inside and saw the menu, it also reminded me of an American diner. We ordered pizza and chicken fingers and it was good. There are only two known pizza restaurants in Batanes, and for me, this one is better than the other.
Harbour Cafe
One of the most popular restaurants in town, Harbour Cafe offers outdoor dining with a sea view, where you can watch the sunset. The menu has a wide range of cuisine, but I loved the pesto pasta the most in this restaurant.
Near Basco
Cafe Tukon at Fundacion Pacita
Fundacion Pacita is the most expensive hotel in Batanes, it’s the type of hotel where only the richest tourists stay. So you can already tell, their menu is pretty expensive. But from the ambiance to the views and food, Cafe Tukon aced it. I ate here twice and splurged each time. I loved the cheesecake and beef salpicao. The pasta with a local twist also tasted great.
La Ninay’s Food Stall
When I took a look at the menu and saw corned beef, my first impression was an expensive carinderia. This outdoor restaurant has a cozy homely vibe but the food is gourmet level, and the corned beef was surprisingly “homemade”. An acquaintance told me the cook here worked at Fundacion Pacita before. I cannot even remember what I ordered but I just remember it being so good.
Where to eat in Sabtang
Da Figura Cafe
I have tried a lot of dishes at this restaurant (because I celebrated my birthday here), and they all tasted great. They (Da Figura Cafe Owner) would and I would recommend trying the “Vunung” at this restaurant. It’s a local dish that’s rooted in the “Bayanihan” culture in Batanes. Vunung is also available in Basco but they say Sabtang Vunung is a different variation.
Where to eat in Itbayat
In Itbayat, we requested for Fish Sinigang to be served at a local homely eatery that I do not know the name of, or if it even has a name. It was arranged by our tour guide, Kuya Obet. The food costs Php 400 per person. It was expensive but it was so good.
Itbayat is kind of interesting, their population is so low that they do not regularly slaughter livestock. When they do, they inform everyone through text and it would sell out immediately. That’s why the food is more expensive and limited. They also have a super low crime rate that their resident judge whom we met in the eatery, almost has nothing to do. Of course, she doesn’t want any crime to happen, but she just craves something to do. She just reads regularly to expand her knowledge in her field.
Transportation
How to get there
By plane
Philippine Airlines is the only airline that offers passenger transportation to Batanes. Round-trip airfare usually costs around Php 20,000, but when there’s a promo it can be as low as Php 6,000 to Php 7,000. I managed to score a round trip ticket to Batanes that only cost Php 6,700 on my recent trip last 2023. I booked the ticket in June, flew to Batanes in October, and went back to Manila in November.
How to get around
Around Basco
The town of Basco is so small that when you look at the map, the airport runway looks longer than the whole town. You can get around by walking or riding a bike. Locals get around by walking or riding a motorbike. Tricycles are usually on call and the minimum fare is Php 50.
If you want to go to the Rolling Hills and/or Lighthouse, you can rent a motorbike. It only costs Php 150 per hour.
By bike
I once did the Batanes loop by bike, passing through Mahatao and Ivana, then through the interior road on the way back, because a friend lent me his bike for more than a week. I do not recommend doing this, but if you ever plan on just biking around the town of Basco, here are the bike rental costs:
City Bike: Php 20/ hour
Mountain Bike: Php 50/ hour
Intertown
By jeep
There’s a jeepney that leaves from Basco at 5 am and reaches Ivana in 1 to 2 hours. A friend only told me about the jeep schedule but I never had the chance to ride one as it leaves too early. You can ask around the locals, about where it departs in Basco.
By motorbike
You can rent a motorbike in Basco to visit the other towns of Batan Island.
Here are the motorbike rental costs:
Php 150/ hour
Php 1,000/ day
Basco to Sabtang
The jeep from Basco leaves at 5 am just in time to reach the boat that leaves from the Ivana port to Sabtang by 7 am.
Around Sabtang
No establishments offer motorbike rental in Sabtang, but you can rent a motorbike from Basco for 1 to 2 days and bring it along with you on the boat to Sabtang.
Hiring a tricycle for a whole day tour in Sabtang costs Php 1800, but they discourage doing so without a tour guide. A tricycle capacity is only up to 3 pax.
I went to Sabtang twice, once with friends during my birthday, and the second time alone. I tagged along with my friend to get to the Ivana port and back and stayed at Da Figura Cafe for one night. As I was already close with Ate Charo, the owner, they let me rent their motorbike, and I only paid Php 300 for riding it half the day.
Basco to Itbayat
By plane
A one-way ticket to and from Itbayat costs around Php 2,800 to Php 3,000. It leaves from Basco at 8 am and from Itbayat at 9 am. The plane ride only takes 10 to 20 minutes.
By boat
The boat to Itbayat leaves from Basco at 5 am and costs around Php 800. The ride takes 2 to 4 hours.
When I went to Itbayat with my friend Norene, we took the boat to Itbayat and rode the plane back to Basco.
Around Itbayat
Going DIY in Itbayat is extremely discouraged because most of the tourist spots are cliffs. Almost all of the motorbikes in Itbayat also have gear shifters because they have extremely steep roads. I doubt there are any motorbikes for rent in Itbayat.
An Itbayat tour costs depending on how many you are but a 1-person tour can cost as high as Php 8,000. My arranged tour with a friend cost us Php 2,400 each plus a Php 110 tourist registration. This excludes accommodation and food.
Batanes Tourist Spots
There are places I would willingly skip in Batanes’ recommended tourist spots and one of them would be the Honesty Coffee Shop. The Ivatans are known to be warm, kind, and honest people. The formerly called “Honesty Store”, now “Honesty Coffee Shop” is proof of that. Unlike other small stores in the Philippines, it is one without a cashier and you can just get what you want and pay for it in a jar. Years ago, it was only locals who bought from the Honesty Store. Today, however, because of this unique practice, it is now curated for tourists more than locals so I would not consider it an authentic Ivatan cultural experience. This recommended list of things to do in Batanes leans toward that (without skipping the best sights!).
Things to do in North Batan
Experience sunrise at Marlboro Hills
With a breathtaking view of the sea, Mt. Iraya, Tayid Lighthouse, and the hedgerows of Mahatao, the Marlboro Hills belong to the top tourist destinations in Batanes. Just watch out for the cow dung lying around because it’s also a grazing hill.
Visit the Diura Fishing Village
A small fishing village where you can see stunning limestone cliffs and witness the fishing culture in Batanes.
You can also go to the nearby Spring of Youth, and take a dip in the spring pool with the view of Mt. Iraya.
Drive around the Batan Island
Batan loop, as I call it, can be achieved when you drive around the whole of Batan Island. I did this once on a motorbike and the second time on a bike. When I rode the motorbike, one of the things I found beautiful was the drive to Tukon from Mahatao– seeing the hedgerows of Mahatao from above, while riding my motorbike.
Here are some spots that are worth the stopover when doing the Batan loop:
- Alapad Rock Formation (You’ll find the famous “Blow Ur Horn” photo spot here!)
- Mutchong Viewpoint (the I Love Uyugan signage is found here.)
- Chatapuyan or the iconic rock formation you’ll pass by from South to North Batan.
Climb Mt. Matarem in Ivana
Hiking this mountain was one of the best off-the-beaten-path adventures I did in Batanes. From the summit of Mt. Matarem, you can see the hedgerows of Mahatao all the way to Mt. Iraya.
Climb Itbud Ijang
Among many historical spots in Batanes, Ijangs sparked my curiosity the most. An Ijang is a hilltop fortress that the ancient Ivatans used as a settlement to defend themselves from tribal wars and pirates. The view from the top of the Ijang looks nice even though it was extremely hot when I hiked it.
Things to do in South Batan
Experience sunset at Rolling Hills and/or Basco Lighthouse
The most hyped thing to do in Batanes, even for locals, is to catch the sunset at Rolling Hills. I did this multiple times during my stay in Batanes. Once alone and the rest with friends. The views of the grazing hills do not disappoint every time.
You can also catch the sunset at Basco Lighthouse, although it’s not as incredible as watching it from the Rolling Hills.
Do a life reflection at Valugan Boulder Bay
Watching and hearing the waves crashing through the rocks is just super therapeutic, you may catch yourself just passing time at Valugan Boulder Bay for hours.
Sights to see in Sabtang
Chavayan Village
The most popular authentic Ivatan Village in Batanes located in the southernmost part of Sabtang, here you can spot the traditional Ivatan houses made of rocks, corals, limestones, and cogon roofs.
Chamantad Viewpoint
I consider Sabtang as the most beautiful island among the three inhabited islands of Batanes because of the view here. The grazing hills facing the ocean just look so incredible.
Morong Beach
The postcard-worthy rock arch featuring Batanes is found here.
Morong Viewpoint
Now if you haven’t had enough of the greenery and the sea, make your way to the Morong Viewpoint to witness this view.
Sights to see in Itbayat
Rapang Cliff
The highlight of an Itbayat tour is the trek to this cliff, which we unfortunately missed due to bad weather. I could only praise it through the photos I have seen.
Umawen Arc
Going to this secret arc by the sea includes a very short hike down a rugged path, but the view is well worth it, especially during sunset.
Torongan Cliff
Wild and historic, Torongan Cliff will make you realize how parallel the culture of Batanes’ ancient inhabitants was to Vikings. On the way to the cliff, you’ll see the ancient burial site of boat-shaped markers facing the sea.
Chinapoliran Port
If you’re on the right time, you can catch the local fishermen in their usual afternoon routine, practicing the “Bayanihan” culture to push the boats up the road from the end of the port and also eat some raw fish.
Expenses
Cost of Living
The cost of living in Batanes is soaring high, it’s probably the highest in the whole country. I thought it was already expensive to live in Mountain Province because the rice costs Php 60/kg, but living in Batanes is on a different level. My local friend says you need to earn at least Php 30,000 a month to live properly in Batanes and by living properly, I mean not skipping any meals.
Batanes Tour Expenses
Tour operators offer 3-day tours around Batan and Sabtang that can cost as low as Php 18,000, airfare and accommodation included. They can offer promos as low as this when Philippine Airlines has a seat sale. My friends Norene and Mark got their tour from Byaheng Lokal, for Php 25,000 each. Their tour was in October.
If you plan to do it on your own though, here are some sample basic expenses;
5D4N in Batan
| Fees | 350.00 |
| Batanes Tourist Fee | 300.00 |
| Mahatao Environmental Fee | 50.00 |
| Transportation | 8,300.00 |
| Air Fare | 7,000.00 |
| 24h Motorbike Rental + Fuel | 1,300.00 |
| Food & Lodge | 7,600.00 |
| 12 meals at 300/meal | 3,600.00 |
| 4 nights stay at 1200/night | 4,000.00 |
| TOTAL SAMPLE EXPENSES | 16,250.00 |
2D1N in Sabtang
| Fees | 260.00 |
| Sabtang Environmental Fee | 220.00 |
| Terminal Fee | 40.00 |
| Transportation | 1,500.00 |
| Roundtrip Boat Fare | 300.00 |
| 24h Motorbike Rental + Fuel | 1,200.00 |
| Food & Lodge | 1,600.00 |
| 4 meals at 300/meal | 1,200.00 |
| 1-night stay at 400/night | 400.00 |
| TOTAL SAMPLE EXPENSES | 3,360.00 |
2D1N in Itbayat
| Fees | 2,510.00 |
| Registration Fee | 110.00 |
| Tour for 2-person at 4800 | 2,400.00 |
| Transportation | 3,756.00 |
| Boat Fare Basco to Itbayat | 806.00 |
| Air Fare Itbayat to Basco | 2,950.00 |
| Food & Lodge | 2,100.00 |
| 4 meals at 400/meal | 1,600.00 |
| 1-night stay at 500/night | 500.00 |
| TOTAL SAMPLE EXPENSES | 8,366.00 |
